Mallory and Irvine items found on the upper slopes of Everest. Photo:

We’ve had the first Everest summits of the spring 2024 season. Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow, currently in Chengdu on his way to Chinese Base Camp on the Tibet side, reports that the Tibetan rope-fixing team summited today, May 7th, opening the route for all climbers.

This was unsurprising, as China allowed Chinese climbers to be on Everest weeks ahead of foreigners. Citing national holidays and other delays, foreigners were prohibited from entering Tibet until May 7th. However, speculation was that the rope team was already working on the route.

On the Nepal side, activity is varied. Climbers are still acclimatizing, with some resting at base camp waiting for the ropes to be fixed and a good weather window. Others have dropped back to lower villages like Namache or Lukla. A few have even taken helicopters back to Kathmandu for some high-end rest and relaxation. In any case, expect summits on the Nepal side as early as this coming weekend, weather permitting.

For those following climbers on the Nepal side, be aware that the internet is spotty this year, leading to long periods of silence. Rest assured, all is well and assume the best.

On both sides, climbers can expect more challenging conditions this spring. The warm, dry winter left the mountain with less than usual snow and more exposed rock, increasing the risk of rockfall.

8K Expeditions reported three more Makalu summits.

Adrian Hayes reports receiving the green light for a summit push on Kangchenjunga:

“So… All confirmed head up tomorrow – Wednesday Camp Two, Thursday Camp Three, Friday Camp Four (leaving around 8 pm), Saturday summit and back to Camp Four (Saturday night or Sunday morning), Monday back to base camp. Daw Sherpa (big boss seven summits) has checked all the weather channels, and it’s looking good for the next six days. The 8K guys are also going for it. Rope fixing has reached 8300 meters, so everything looks good.”

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